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Stylish TO THE Last
Published:  01 October, 2007

OLIVER SWEENEY IS ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS MALE FOOTWEAR DESIGNERS TO COME FROM THE UK. WITH ALL THE PASSION OF A TRADITIONAL BRITISH SHOEMAKER, SWEENEY HAS MOVED HIS SELF-NAMED BRAND FORWARD WITH ITALIAN FINISHES AND FASHION FORWARD DESIGNS THIS SEASON IS THE BRANDS FIRST STEP ON TO THE LONDON FASHION WEEK CATWALK, SUPPORTING UP AND COMING DESIGNER- JACOB KIMME. WE CAUGHT UP WITH THE MAN HIMSELF TO FIND OUT HOW HE HAS DRIVEN THE BRAND FORWARD, AND HIS EXCITING PLANS FOR THE FUTURE.

Q - How important are your humble beginnings in the footwear trade to your fast paced business as it stands today?

A - My beginnings at the bottom of the ladder in the footwear industry have really been crucial to helping me build the Oliver Sweeney business. Working as a general dog's body at a bespoke shoe makers I really got to understand the trade and the detailed construction of a shoe. This understanding of what makes good footwear great and the construction techniques enabled me to develop the Oliver Sweeney patented Anatomical Last which is one of the elements that has really made Oliver Sweeney shoes so special and encouraged such a loyal customer following.

Q - Why, in your opinion, has the Oliver Sweeney brand achieved such success?

A - It is difficult to pinpoint it on one thing... there are so many important elements from great design, quality materials and manufacturing to excellent customer service. However, the one constant has been the Oliver Sweeney Anatomical Last and I think this is central to the brand offering... as we can really bring the comfort of bespoke shoes to the mass market. The Anatomical Last has been specifically sculpted to give support to the arch of the foot, the gentle twist simulates the natural shape of the foot by creating the most comfortable and ergonomically correct shoes on the market. I think the fact our customers can rely on the comfort and design from the Oliver Sweeney offering is crucial... we have such a loyal customer base because of this, I guess it is really our customers that have helped us achieve our success!!

Q - Where do you get your inspiration?

A - Everything - I love looking at new trends in the industry and looking back at my experience too. This season I was really inspired by Art Deco and this can been seen on detailing on the current collection! I live in the countryside in Devon and get great inspiration from this and my environment too.

Q - Who do you admire?

A - There isn't one person that I could name, but without a doubt my good friend Palmiro, who owns our factory in Italy. Also in there are my staff whose efforts and belief in our brand continually amaze me, and of course I will always have a fondness for the craftsman who taught me about shoes in that first job.

Q - How important is Italian manufacture to your shoes? Do you feel it takes away any of its traditional "British" sense?

A - It's incredibly important. Since we exclusively use the factory in Ancona, it allows us to produce pieces that are only available to Oliver Sweeney. We wanted to use the best facilities we could in constructing our footwear while keeping the British design apparent, and Italy's craftsmanship and leather is unparallel. This fusion creates a really nice balance and I don't think it takes away from the British'ness'. All the designs are coming from me and I am British through and through!

Q - What would you suggest the real meaning of luxury is?

A - Luxury is a balance of quality fabrics, subtlety of design, comfort and an individual aesthetic.

Q - How do you keep the business up to date and modern?

A - I am always trying to create new and innovative things with different types of leather, design detailing and treatments. For Spring Summer 2008, we are including our patent style along with really new cracked distressed leather which is going to be huge next season! Colourful shoes are starting to become men's way of making a statement without going overboard…just like women do with their handbags. We also have run limited edition styles on more off the wall items like motorcycle helmets or the Sessanta Sei real crocodile paneled Chelsea boots. Our involvement as the official footwear provider for the Honda F1 team along with selected English and Irish rugby players like Lawrence Dellaglio and Lewis Moody, keep our profile high and shows our commitment to smart comfortable shoes that provide support for even the best sportsmen.

Q - Tell us about the exciting plans for London Fashion Week

A - It's a great opportunity to preview some of our real show stopping pieces and get involved with such a talented up and coming designer like Jacob Kimmie. Jacob came to us as he has always been a fan of the shoes and he chose a couple of styles including our brand new white cracked leather loafers, metallic lace ups and patent slip ons. We also worked together to come up with a patent sandal which debuts at the show and was created specifically for him.

Q - Why did you decide to offer an entirely bespoke shoe service this season?

A - It isn't entirely bespoke, but it is a custom made shoe which gives our customer the chance to really put their stamp on their footwear! It was really the next step for us in the business as it was something that allowed our customer to get involved in the process and create a really personal and special shoe. Each shoe created is truly unique and involves the customer while keeping the Oliver Sweeney patented Anatomical Last at its core, as well as our quality leathers and craftsmanship. There are over 100 design possibilities in iguana, crocodile and ostrich skins so possibilities are endless really!

Q - What has been your proudest moment?

A - When I opened my first store on Middlesex Street- a really defining moment!

Q - What do you have planned for the future?

A - There are a couple of things in the pipeline in regards to doing an exciting collaboration and also supporting a new charity after our success with The Everyman shoe a couple seasons ago. But otherwise it is just pushing the innovation and design season on season to ensure our customers continue to get the highest quality in design and footwear from us!


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