|
The BLC Leather in Technology conference took place on the 26th September 2007 in the picturesque location of the Leathersellers Hall, London. With the means to ultimately plug the exciting new “leather working group”, (a stakeholder group which assesses, audits and certifies manufacturers for their alignment to good environmental practice) visitors got more than they bargained for with an interesting seminar covering the ethical and environmental problems associated with leather. We were there as the event unfolded...
Leather is quite ordinarily the product that, as an industry, we all rely on in some shape or form. Traditional Goodyear Welted, modern, ladies, men’s, kids...even the PU worshipping wholesale brands are slowly creeping into the market of leather with higher quality, more comfortable styles. The leather industry is valued at 45 billion US dollars, more than rice, coffee and cotton. Leather is pure luxury, soft and supple, expensive and rich and although often associated with a less than animal friendly reputation, but a sound environmental one. It seems, however, that this notion has some mythical qualities to it and that manufacturers all over the globe are getting it inherently wrong somewhere along the lines of the manufacturing process.
In essence, this is why the BLC (The British Leather Corporation) has got involved with “The Leather Working Group”. This is a multi stake hold group initially set up by mammoth brands Nike and Timberland in 2005. With the aim to develop and maintain a protocol of the environmental influence of tanners, they approached The British Leather Corporation to gather interest in the issue in the UK.
The purpose of the group is to initially create a standard of environmental properties that fits all by creating scoring systems and a something a little more than a “tick box enterprise” through a thorough auditing process that allows manufacturers to gain a gold, silver or bronze standard, a level recognisable to retailers and brands.
The areas of particular concern for The Leather Working Group include management of controlled substances, emergency planning, operating permits, air emissions, waste management, water consumption, control of manufacturing processes (significant waste), efficient treatment of problematic systems and chrome management.
AREAS OF PARTICULAR IMPORTANCE IN LEATHER TRADING
Chrome Free Leathers
As Victoria Addy from the BLC pointed out, this new directive is driven by the number of automotive tanners that have specified chrome free leather in cars and recent directives in legislation that have highlighted the dangers of chrome in products. Chromium itself is not a problem within leather, however. Chrome III is a perfectly safe substance with no implications but it does have the properties to be converted to the very dangerous Chrome V I. Chromium is persistent and cannot change its state; it will always be present in leathers. Metallic Chromium (0) is inert. Trivalent chromium (III) is stable but Hexavolent Chromium (VI) is hazardous.
“Consumer concerns in this field have been fuelled by bad press and publicity surrounding Chromium in leathers, with ill informed and misinterpreted ideas of how the chemical affects the leather. “ explains Addy “Films like Erin Brokovich which highlight problems associated with Chrome VI in a cleaning agent don’t help us explain the facts properly.”
Other Restricted Substances
“The control of restricted substances is very difficult as the areas are complex and requirements are dependent upon a number of factors, including use, point of sale and product.” Explains Krishna Patel from the BLC.
The four main culprits are Azo dyes, Formaldehyde, PCP and Chrome VI.
Azo dyes
Azo Dyes are a dye used in leather colouring in the past. The colours are very vivid, and the dye is fine in its original form, but it can be reduced to aromatic amines when in direct contact with the skin for long periods of time.
Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde is historically a tanning agent but it is carcinogenic and dangerous in certain levels, although the restrictions differ throughout the globe making it very difficult to control. In the EU 20-1500ppm is allowed but in Japan, just 20ppm.
PCP
PCP is regularly used as a pesticide and preservative in the wood industry. Levels should not exceed 5ppm. The substance can cause excess heat in the body and has, in extreme cases, caused the melting of organs within the body.
Other chemical nasties include more commonly known products such as lead, arsenic, mercury amongst others and the BLC can test for them all.
“Due diligence is the only way leather businesses can protect themselves against these problems.” Continues Patel “If manufacturers can prove that all efforts were made in compliance to the rules, and then this is a good defence is problems should arise.”
RSPCA and Animal Welfare in leather production
“When asked if they were concerned about where leather comes from, 80% of individuals surveyed answered yes” explains David Bowles from the RSPCA “The bottom line is that fashion is behind on animal welfare issues, but consumers are fully aware of them and it is ultimately a huge growth market.”
The RSPCA is doing more work with big business in fashion, including the “Good Business Awards” promoting good animal welfare production. This new arm to the fashion industry is not just relevant in terms of ethical procedures; it is worth a lot of money for your business too. Most people are looking for a high standard of animal welfare.
Of course, there are many issues which are resolved through auditing which many of us are completely aware of, not least of all the control of materials from endangered and protected species. Other issues include how the animal has been treated and where they have come from, which can all be traced by i-d tag and bar code on a hide.
Working with the BLC and RSPCA to run audits and spot checks will create a standard for leather businesses and highlight a brand separation in a growth area, and is well worth taking note of.
Shipping in transportation
Shipping has relatively new implications since many plants have moved their production to the Far East. Transportation for long periods of time has many implications, most of all mould, colour migration, spue and metal corrosion.
Mould
Mould is part of the fungi group and is a complex group of micro organisms that require organic matter. Mould is also toxic in many forms and can cause organ failure and death. It is one of the most dangerous carcinogens known to man. Mould can be remediated, but you must be extremely careful. Only small areas of mould should be remediated. How can you avoid mould? Packaging must be clean and ventilated prior to shipment and protocols can be used to control mould.
Spue and Colour Migration
Colour Migration occurs when colour fades or migrates to certain areas of a shoe. The latest foiled leathers are a major culprit and have to be taken particular care of. Spue occurs when the surface blooms or blushes and is caused by the migration of mobile fats to the surface of the leather.
How to avoid these issues
Ensure that leather is protected in the shipping of hides and finished product, Make sure that storage is heat and humidity tested and ensure the right temperature and clean and tidy storage.
Why a Leather Working Group Audit Could Help.
The BLC has commissioned a life cycle analysis of these issues, from problems associated with finished product to a focus on the environment in production methods including issues with emissions, transportation and tanning it. The BLC takes a holistic approach to a very important problem by creating a safe haven for brands to build confidence and address concerns. The latest advancements will see new eye catching labels on any product that has been certified, including labels from “Quality check”, “Consumer Safe” and “Environmentally Preferred” as well as “metal free tags”, a benchmark for quality that will soon be recognised globally.
For more information contact the BLC on 44 (0) 1604 679941 or visit www.blcleathertech.com
How do you keep up-to-date with the latest news from the Footwear sector?
