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Phoenix from the flames
Published:  23 January, 2008

Ash, one of the latest brands rivalling some of the top designers on the market has just experienced its most successful season to date.  In a climate of troubled trading, just how has this Italian brand risen from the flames and outsold some of the biggest names in footwear? We spoke to Head of UK Distribution, Eddie Benisty to find out more...

The increase in sales and perpetual interest in the brand proves one thing,” says Benisty “Ash is here to stay. Five years in the business and we are booming. We simply could not be happier.”

It is no surprise that the brand has something to smile about. As the short punchy name grows in momentum, most shoppers want to own a pair of Ash as much as they dream and desire for a pair of Marc by Marc Jacobs. The brand has experienced a 50% growth in purchases this season and a 70% sell through on autumn/winter styles already, a figure many brands could only dream of.

What has aided this phenomenal season?

The USP of a brand like Ash is their sheer majority appeal , a broad and enticing collection that spans no less than three hundred uppers and retails at the reasonable price points of £89.00-£280.00 (for a boot). Thus, shoppers who demand the Ash brand span those who are usually gracing the floors of top designer boutiques right down to the fashionista student who likes to save a bit of cash.

“Someone who buys our shoes may also buy Marc Jacobs or Miu Miu but from us they purchase two pairs as the price is right. We sell to a broad range of individuals, from 18 year olds to 60 year olds; the Ash brand has only one prejudice... women who appreciate great shoes.”

The brainchild of prestigious business man Patrick Eithier 5 years ago, Ash started life in some ifficulties. Although Eithier ‘s experience was second to none, leading many brands into success throughout the late 1980s and early 1990s, his partnering with Leonellie, a manufacturer in Italy the company led to shocking financial problems, and he had to rethink its structure. The most controversial and exciting step for the brand was allowing a Chinese company to purchase 50% of the Ash brand, the move, it seems, was an absolute success as today Ash is sold in the most prestigious stores in Europe and worldwide.

“In the last three years Ash has been a big hit in Europe, stocked in stores like Galleries La Fayette, Le Bon Marche and alongside Prada and Gucci at Le Printemps.” Explains Benisty “In the UK we are stocked in 150 stores and they span big names like Kurt Geiger to niche boutiques like Larizia and Cricket Liverpool.”

The plan for the brand is to open thirty six standalone stores in the next 18 months throughout Europe, in all the best areas in Paris, Rome and Milan. The first opening will be next February in Paris, and is set for success. Ash is in no hurry to turn their attention away from their wholesale business, however, with added energies into broadening their range of stockists throughout the UK:

“We are increasing our distribution to cover smaller boutiques nationwide; we want to keep the independent sector in the UK as alive as we can.”

Selling 140,000 pairs a year in countries like France, a nation that hold dearly to their independent sector, shows Ash as a brand with longevity across all sectors. Stocking over 2,000 stores globally and selling just short of two million pairs in the last two years shows that the brand is sure to grow further in the UK.

“We also stock many large stores who own brand the Ash shoe to make it their own. Kurt Geiger, for instance, purchased twenty thousand pairs last season from us, and some of the key styles hitting the press were our brand. We are happy with this side of the business, but want to grow our own label too.”

The Ash signature style may be difficult to pin point through the three hundred uppers they produce every season, but one thing is clear, their quality is luxury. Although produced in China, the brand is not about churning out the cheapest styles possible, but moreover uses the finest quality factory, with a 50% stake in the business and a vested interest in the brand. Ash also imports all of its materials and components from Italy.

“The Combination of leathers used by the brand make them tactile and premium. Every last detail is precise down to styling and added components. We will not used anything basic within the brand every item is ornate and detailed with accessories. “
The Ash branding is also very strong, in terms of logo and in sock details all designed with extreme attention to detail and insoles are tonal and are created with extra padding for comfort. Point of Sale and online services are also strong, offering buyers and consumers a real package when they invest in the brand.

Most importantly Ash has its fingers on the pulse of fashion. The latest collection is a beautiful array of covered platforms, patent brogues, thick heeled dolly shoes and silk/satin vulcanised trainers, to name a few.  Spring/Summer 2008 has been an ultimate success story for the brand, showing at The Collections at WSA, MICAM, Pitti Uomo and Firenze Salon L’ere Classe in Paris as well as countless showroom events including The Kensington Shoe Event and The Central Shoe Show at the Kensington Hilton. The brand also has their own showroom in London, 15-17 Margaret Street, as well as agents on the road all over the UK and Ireland.

So what is the next exciting step for Ash?

“We have a new concession with our own label in Harrods, Selfridges and Liberty this season. This is the biggest thing to happen to the brand in the
UK and reinforces its sights for the top spot in the market.” Explains Benisty “Generally? We simply want to keep growing and keep producing great shoes!”

To arrange an appointment to view the Ash collection contact 0039 055 260 8406 or email info@ashitalia.com


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