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The concept of footwear with added value, the idea of a shoe that offers that little ‘extra', something which improves the users experience, their performance, or simply their overall general sense of wellbeing is not a new or unique one. Sporting, casual, and increasingly work wear designers have, since the 1960's and beyond, been leading the charge in marketing not only the style of a shoe, but also its substance.
These added extras have often taken the shape of a small and nominally scientific USP - interesting or effective enough to set it apart from the rest of the pack and in more recent times this move to artificially elevate the functions of a design has left us with shoes that pump, laces that twist (or stick) and a vast array of soles that have had us quite literally walking on air. Over the years this extraneous functionality has undoubtedly left a small legacy of some excellent and persevering designs; the Dr Marten ‘Airware' classic or the resurgently retro Onitsuka Tiger series for example. Alas, these are exceptions in a field more likely to be littered with ill conceived ideas and short lived gimmicky indulgence.
So, against this perilous backdrop we find a company called Geox. These Italian shoe designers and manufacturers already enjoy well established brand awareness and proliferation across Europe though currently have a limited UK presence. Their premise? Pack a product range chock full of fully patented, value adding technology whilst simultaneously ensuring that style and form aren't left as an accidental afterthought. And, under a banner of "Style & Technology", this is exactly what they are going to market with.
The idea, as is so often the case, was a simple one. In 1995 during an impromptu walk in Nevada taken whilst promoting a family wine business, Moretti Polegato quickly begins to experience discomfort. That the heat of the Nevada desert made his feet uncomfortably hot is to be expected, but perhaps the remedial action taken by Mr Polegato and his penknife was not. The resulting incisions engineered into the soles of his shoes were the germination of an idea for simply removing excess heat from footwear.
This concept; porous soles on shoes that allow sweat to escape whilst remaining impervious to the outside elements now features in all shoes produced by the company developed over the intervening period. Improved and refined over several years in the laboratory and the workshop, it focuses on two patented designs. Firstly, one that applies to all to rubber soled shoes. The second is a separate (though similar) patent manifesting itself in the application of the technology to leather soled products (which although naturally permeable are, it is suggested, more liable to allow external moisture into the shoe during wet conditions). Once again the Geox mantra remains that applying their water resistant technology means that unwanted water vapour can escape whilst simultaneously ensuring the rain can't get in.
So it would appear that the science is sound. And also that the Europeans are convinced. 2006 sales figures show sales of $574m EUR on footwear, and over 64% of these sales made outside the native Italy. Furthermore, year on year growth on figures across all ranges (including the apparel range) have remained steady at around the 33% mark each year for the last three years. I also defy anyone not to be secretly impressed by the image that depicts a smart Italian brogue as it discharges unwanted moisture from its undercarriage as if it were some well heeled clothes iron set magnificently to full steam setting. So, considering the often more modest aesthetic aspirations of a product based on its function, it is pleasing to see that for SS08 there has also been plenty of consideration on the stylistic design in all three footwear ranges on offer (Geox Woman, Man and Kids) and that an ability to ‘be waterproof' or ‘breathable' appears not to have been at the forefront of the creative brief.
Geox Woman starts casual with a selection of sneakers with mostly neutral colours - shades of putty and beige making way to slightly brighter touches on a pearly leather variant with a more slim line athletic feel. It quickly moves to a smarter selection of low cut leather pumps. Here, the rubber sole becomes understated; less of a design feature, and the colour scheme transforms successfully to a contrasting use of black, white and red/silver combinations.
Next, it's over to the delicate and slender selection, "New Alexa" - a petite, plimsoll like pump available in python print or goat leather in muted shades of gold, bronze and brown. A quirky ballerina design; each shoe has a definite curve which daintily bananas the toe of the shoe slightly from the ground. It's a turn which works well with the thin sole and particularly so with the darker colours.
Wedges, heels and thongs all feature in the collection as well. Some styles are shamelessly southern European as is the case with the moccasins - a more portly, monochrome leather affair, adorned with tassels with more than a lingering nod to the classic eighties slip-on loafer.
And of course, all shoes featuring that all important selling point; all lightweight and all with that breathable rubber sole to ensure comfort as the spring slips gently into long, warm (yet certainly sweat free) summer evenings. Yes, technology has once again flirted with fashion. And this time, it looks like they've only gone and hit it off....
Geox have currently one UK distributor located in Kent (Blue Water, 118 Lower Guild Hall: gs.londonbw@geox.com or call 01322 387 049 for stockist details).
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