The billing for the first showing in February was certainly aiming to be no different with a cracking selection of over 800 womenswear and accessory collections. As Pure prospers and expands (15% year on year) so the size, appeal and buzz surrounding the event grows. One such benefactor of this was Spirit (Pure's, "sweet, edgy section of young creative must-have labels for the confident fashionistas") who were this year given their own catwalk for the duration of the event.

However it was, we were happy to report earlier in the year, the footwear sector that was lining itself up to be one of the big winners amongst all this exciting (and contrary to deteriorating market conditions) growth. And it was the inclusion of Pure Footwear section that was proving to be quite the attraction with expected numbers planning to exceed 125.

Furthermore, for a sector that has always enjoyed sampling, trying and buying from the new entrants to the market place, February 2008 promised a total of 65% new footwear brands, so it was sure to be a tantalising prospect. So was it a show for the new contender, and how did some of the more established brands get on? We found out...

Olivier Lievre representing Audley shoes was particularly enthusiastic. "We had exhibited a few years ago when the accessory element was only small. This was our first time recently and we thought it was very good." The Spanish brand makes no apology for being influenced by the art and design culture, quoting the Bauhaus school maxim of ensuring form and function work together. It's an approach which seems to have gone down well with the buyers as we were advised Audley had opened up new accounts running into double figures over the course of the event. "It was very well organised for newcomers," concluded Lievre, "we had a good location with great visibility."
Pure February was also about redefinition. Ravel, now part of the Jacobson group was taking the opportunity to be to showcase their brand new range at Pure for the very first time. Ravel appeared keen to ensure they were demonstrating trend led footwear and did include some of the ongoing themes we are starting to see appear for next season. It was a bold collection with a strong focus on heels - stilettos and platforms but it was the eclectic and innovative range of finishes which opened eyes. A dandyish use of buckles on both boots and heels was utilised and there was some striking use of metallic, with the pewter and black ‘Bea' design attracting notable interest along with its equally striking wholesale pricing of £25

However, the newcomers didn't have it there own way. More established or experienced designers were also vying for attention amidst the crowds. Angeline Tournier has been attending the event for the past three years and is well placed to observe that the quality of the buyers in attendance remains strong year on year. "This year the event was brilliant for me," said Tournier, "I was the busiest I've ever been, I think partly because my collection was colourful and very different from the generic corporate stands."

And looking at the range it's easy to agree. The designer, a former City solicitor who, we are glad to see, retrained at LCF to follow her creative urge led with strong use of red on an ankle boot, complete with silver metallic accents and a curving flamenco heel. Also in attendance was a take on the Mary Jane heel, a popular feature for AW08 judging by the wares across the show, here delightfully realised in grey. So another person happy with proceedings? "Yes, I'll continue to show at Pure," confirms Tournier, "because buyers actually place orders there." And you simply can't say fairer than that.

This unbounded optimism was life affirming to see coming in a month which saw the continuing grim hiccups of the sub prime and their knock on effects on the retail sector and the various crisis of consumer confidence. The figures are hard to ignore (attention fact fans). According to post event research in 2006, 88% of exhibitors took signed orders from new customers. In 2007, 75% visitors said they had been successful in sourcing new brands or suppliers. Jan Shutt takes up the mantle, "The accessories are phenomenal," she says, "having such choice in footwear, jewellery and bags makes it much easier for the buyer." Pure's reputation as a transactional event shows no sign of slowing down it would seem.

Also setting up stall to attempt to take benefit from the advantageous buying conditions was the vehemently proud of their Spanish origins brand, Neosens. Hailing from deep in the Rioja region, these Basque artisans pride themselves on hand crafted designs from a wide and innovative range of fabrics. AW08 promises more of the same. A highlight came with another take on the lace up ankle boot. Here in rioja and other more muted shades, in textured, stained leather and with an Edwardian edge that particularly made them stand apart from the others. The seemingly unstoppable block heel so prevalent at the moment also, judging by the stands, seems to be here for the remainder of the year. And no better examples could be found than under the banner of Art, another Spanish brand aiming for young, unique and creative designs.

Continuing their mission for the avant garde was another block heeled leather take on the mary jane style with a bold, almost cartoon like ankle strap with heavy duty button detailing. Autumn and winter of this year will also see no shortage of boots in myriad shapes and sizes for when the weather begins to bite again. Ankles, slouch, knee length, with and without heels and in a fine selection of materials and designs were all on display. A strong showing from Gant provided an elegance and sleek cut on some of its offerings - slim line knee length variant "Sarah" proving practicality need not be at mercy of good styling in wholesome dark colours.

So it would seem we had another strong showing at Pure and a resultant series of happy exhibitors and buyers alike. All helping maintain the reputation that the show has developed over the last eleven years: A great forum in which to buy and display next season's wares.

Long may it continue. Pure will be back at Olympia from 3 - 5 August. And so will we.

For Stockist Info:

Audley: http://www.audley.uk.com/. UK Agents 0845 201 3135
Ravel: 01706 212 512
Angeline Tournier: http://www.angelinetournier.com/. 0207 100 4061
Neosens: http://www.neosens.com/
Art: http://www.the-art-company.com/.

All prices wholesale:
Ravel range shown here £25 - £38
Angeline Tournier range in full £67 - £125
For others, please contact directly for stockist and pricing information.

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