The general malaise typified perhaps by large European retailers like Mexx withdrawing entirely from the UK market and exacerbated as UK retailer John Lewis announces record profits and large bonus payments for staff whilst in the very next breath issuing stern projections about future performance. Yet it is against this mirthless back drop that the KSE, now in its eighth year, unabashedly continues to attract a large number of optimistic pan European traders eager to establish a toehold or to continue working leverage in the UK market.

This cosmopolitan billing appears to underline the ethos of the organisers of the show. Marching to the banner of ‘Europe's Finest Shoes' the intention is simply to showcase mid to high end footwear collections in a ‘one stop shop' format. Three days, concise and compact display areas and a more relaxed, reserved and private approach than perhaps seen at the larger Euro shows, and the event is ready to open its doors.

A large percentage of the ground floor had been given over to the proceedings. With approximately 65 exhibits (a mix of agents and factories) all offering up their wares there is an air of understated activity throughout the space. Understated that is, in that it is not immediately definable as busy.

Upon catching up with one of the organisers, Renato de Anglelis (who arranges the event with co organiser Martin Ward), he agreed that the first day so far had been a little slower than normal. This appeared to follow the trend that he thought recent exhibitions he'd visited in both Milan and Madrid seemed to have experienced lighter than usual footfall. Renato was however adamant in asserting an upbeat forecast, maintaining that the people attending the event, "come here to buy, not to browse," and that slow did not mean that vendors weren't taking orders.

Taking in a tour of some of the exhibits certainly seemed to bear this out. Order books were being scribbled in, laptops intensely consulted and friendly discussions regarding designs, colours and options were in full swing. Jacquie Trievnor here representing the Italian brand Unisa agreed. "This event represents an important order signing weekend," she advised as she walked us through some of the highlights for next winter.

One such highlight was a pertly proportioned lace up ankle boot; a ladies winkle picker style that, attention trend spotters, was a pretty ubiquitous addition to most displays, and was achieved to great effect here in smart, delicate patent leather - another common theme from the stalls.

Unisa have returned several times to the KSE and as a result have built up a 200 strong list of UK clients. Opening their first store in Rome next month and with a range that also featured the use of variations of patented tortoiseshell, it seems they have keen eye for interesting and relevant trends and getting them into UK outlets.

Although there were some very common themes throughout (monochrome bowling shoes, animal print) there was also room for some novelty and innovation. One such approach came from another Italian firm Voltan. With over a century of shoemaking experience I was informed that they were well versed at incorporating expertise with a keen sense of style. Their display certainly hinted at that with some fine examples of leather peephole heels with gold buckle effect which for the most part stuck to the right side of the classy / garish tightrope. A theme here, witnessed on several other stands was the popularity of matching shoe designs with handbags or other accessories.

It was with their side range Glamitalia which particularly caught the eye. Paying homage to an eighteenth century fashionista, the concept revolves around ornate hand made Venetian cobbling combined with traditionally blown glass jewellery. These items range from pumps to peep toes, but word is that the sandals would be a great accompaniment to a summer dress with their high backs, simple elegance and their interesting USP. This focuses on the attached piece of jewellery which acts both as a part of the shoe as, say, a delicate ankle strap, but is then actually completely detachable as a separate accessory. With price points ranging from 80 - 120 euros but with design quality to match these were an eye catching addition.

Also on show was a first timer Daniele Ancarani, who used bold colours to effect a different take on the two tone monochrome feel. The 1920's feeling was modified with heels, straps and bright detailing.

Chiara Rusconi, the representative, upon being quizzed on the experience so far, was stoical, "It is the first day and we are new here" she confided but again, true to form, remained upbeat about the situation, "we have had some good interest this morning and hopefully tomorrow and Tuesday the people will come back and we have the order book open!"

Wandering around the event and talking to the vendors we saw some variations in price though the common entry level flats typically were on sale to buyers from 50 - 70 euros and the ranges going up to $130 euros for knee, and over-the-knee boots. Given the downbeat climate surrounding the market the people we spoke to were bullish about their price points stating that the UK market was always going to be a difficult one given the strong position of the major UK players. The feeling remains as ever that, in the independent sector, people will be happy to pay extra for individuality and for quality - and for products manufactured closer to home.

A range that was taking a harder line on price was the Spanish brand of Vienty. Another newcomer keen to make an impression in the UK market, the designs were awash with colour including bold check, and quirky innovation. Hints of militaristic overtones were abound with shoes featuring a detachable crampon which, when removed, revealed a nicely worked patent heel.

Martin Kirby representing Vienty was very excited about the range. "People have been telling me that items of a similar quality to these have prices from 90 euros a piece," he advised when pushed on the tentative nature of the market place. "So I suppose it does make a refreshing change to have such exciting shoes as these at prices from 40 - 60 euros" he concluded. Vienty also have a full leather range with the same eye catching design, but at a higher price point.

One final eye catcher was a potential one to watch for the future. It's the first showing of Italian brand Apepazza (not to be confused with a US brand); muted colours for AW 08, and a contemporary design philosophy - boots, ballerinas, lace ups. Good quality synthetic and leather, good price points (40 - 120 euros) and fresh into the market. Oh, and a stylish website introduction too. We wait for future ranges with interest.

So despite concerns about crunching credit the overall feel at this important London show was that traders were still confident in the quality of their products and that even the mid to high ranges would still be selling well over the next two days. It was also an opportunity for grumbles about cheap mass market imports and high street dominance to be quietly shushed in the face of a cautious optimism. And, as if to repay this mood, as FT left the hotel, a group of three of four buyers were signing in at the door...

For Stockist information

http://www.apepazza.com/
http://www.rebecasanver.es/
http://www.unisa.co.uk/
http://www.voltan.com/
http://www.glamitalia.com/
http://www.vienty.es/
http://www.danieleancarani.it/

For information on future events:

Renato de Angelis
0207 937 7618

Martin Ward
01242 250 908

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