Blame the supermarkets, the high street stores or the basic inflationary inspired demand for budget clothing - there appears room for the argument that disposability is popular at the expense of traditional forms of manufacture; the shoe crafted by a skilful pair of hands using methods and materials unchanged for more than a century. An item that can be used, cared for and maintained for years. For decades.

That is why it is encouraging to see that time honoured forms of manufacture such as the Goodyear Welting tradition continue to feature; bringing to the market a long lasting, durable and infinitely stylish product that you simply wouldn't want to dispose of.  We talked to two UK firms, Cheaney and Loake, both dedicated to the art of traditional manufacture and found out why they are happy to promote quality and durability in an increasingly throwaway market.

Footwear Today: Goodyear Welting - what is your approach?

Cheaney: "Joseph Cheaney was established in 1886. In 1896, the factory moved to its present site in Desborough, Northamptonshire. We are proud to say that every pair of Cheaney Goodyear Welted shoes are made in our factory in Desborough from the cutting of the leather to the final polishing of the finished shoe, unlike many traditional industries that have succumbed to sourcing and manufacturing elsewhere."

Loake: "Loake footwear stands out as a fine example of the exceptional quality that traditional skills and a rich heritage can achieve. Unlike many, Loake has remained determined to maintain its UK manufacturing base and Made in England heritage. Many local families have seen successive generations learn the specialised art of fine, handcrafted shoemaking at Loake. The last member of the Constable family, first recorded in the Loake wages ledger in 1895, has only recently retired."

FT: How, and to what extent do the origins and traditions shape the direction of your ranges? 

Loake: "Loake is one of the few remaining British shoemakers with an impressive heritage and a commitment to traditional manufacturing techniques. The company has a strong, loyal customer base, but has also successfully nurtured a growing following among younger, more style conscious consumers by developing more contemporary designs.  Not satisfied with the best fitting Goodyear Welted shoes available, Loake have developed their own unique comfort technology, resulting in the most comfortable Goodyear Welted shoe imaginable."

Cheaney: "We have taken our heritage in manufacturing and classic design and blended it with the demands of the 21st Century. Our design team work tirelessly to offer up to the minute, new designs and innovations whilst not forgetting the need for the timeless classics. Our Signature collection is the pinnacle of the range featuring extensively hand burnished classics, with a selection of exquisite colours and the Avant Garde collection maintains many of the Signature quality features, with a more contemporary designer feel to them."

Footwear Today: A quality shoe made in a traditional time honoured way unchanged for over a century.  To what extent has modernity affected the way you operate?

Cheaney: "Fundamentally, the basic construction of a Goodyear Welted shoe has not changed much since the early days of our business. At Cheaney we are always looking to push the boundaries of what we can achieve within the constraints of our construction methods. Working with our customers, many of whom are major international fashion brands, they continually demand innovation with our dual collaborations. In many cases, we can achieve innovative new design within our traditional production methods without compromising on quality and our manufacturing integrity. It is this unblinkered approach that sets us apart from our peers."

Loake: "Although the product is made in the traditional way still, the Loake business is very up-to-date. For example, Loake achieves some of the highest service standards in the industry, including operating a comprehensive in-stock support that can despatch within 24 hours from receipt of an order. Loake's modern outlook can also be seen in a number of recent collaborations, including the remake of an iconic shoe for international sports brand Puma. The effect this has had is that Loake remains one of the world's leading Goodyear Welted manufacturers and is still producing in England, when many other brands have either been forced to relocate all their production overseas to survive or have closed down."

Footwear Today: What's new?

Loake: "The new season's collection from Loake offers both classic and more contemporary designs alongside existing favourites, all handcrafted with the brand's customary attention to detail. A key development is the Capital collection, which is introduced under the top end Loake 1880 label in response to continuing demand for a very traditional English look. Four styles - two Oxfords, a brogue and a loafer - boast an elegant, almond shaped toe and come in top grade burnished calf leather in Black and a range of Browns, through to Bordeaux."

Cheaney: "Cheaney offers a comprehensive in stock collection that is available from many footwear stockists and menswear retailers throughout the UK and, indeed, around the world. Our speciality is our collection of hand burnished styles available in the Signature, Avant Garde and selected styles in the Cheaney of England collection. Hand burnishing involves taking a natural calf leather and, by using ‘antique' creams our skilled craftsmen lightly burn the leather using burnishing mops, to create a unique, antique effect on the upper of the shoe. The process is time consuming, but produces a beautiful finish, worthy of a Cheaney shoe."

Full details of the ranges available at both Cheaney and Loake and further information can be found on their respective websites:  http://www.cheaney.co.uk/ and http://www.loake.co.uk/.  

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